This is Page 4 of Building Instructions for the Redneck Racer Camp Boat.

Summary of Activities

  1. Purchase materials. Purchase the following in #2 or better lumber in pine, fir, poplar, or cedar: (7) 1” x 2” x 8’ strips; (2) 1” x 3” x 8’ strips, (2) ½” x ¾” x 8’ clear pine molding. Purchase a box of 50 stainless steel ¾” #8 flathead screws, a dozen 2” #8 stainless steel screws, a dozen ¾” to 1” fender washers with a 3/16” holes, a 10 oz. tube of Loctite/PL Premium Construction Adhesive, an 8 oz. plastic container of Titebond II or Titebond III glue.
  2. Borrow, purchase, or make at least a dozen clamps. At least 8 of these can be spring clamps. At least 2 should be heavier C-clamps or similar heavy duty clamps.
  3. Add reinforcing pieces to the inside frames. Set up your work space to reinforce the inside side frames of the boat. Align a 1”x 2” x 8’ with the top of an inside frame as shown by the dotted line in Panel #2 as well as the inside view of the inside frame in Panel #5. Apply Titebond glue to the strip and clamp it along the top edge. Do the same with a ½” x ¾” x 8’ molding strip along the bottom edge of the inner frame with the ½” side glued to the surface of the inner frame. Finish the inside frames by adding the reinforcement pieces between the straight top edge and the curved bottom edge as shown in Panels #2 and #5. Make certain that the reinforcing strips will be on the inside or “C” side of the BC plywood frame, not on the face or “B” side. You can use ¾” screws as well as clamps to hold the pieces in place while the glue is drying.
¾” screws are driven through the face into the reinforcing strips then removed after the glue dries. The washers help protect the wood surface from the screw heads.
This photo shows the reverse side after the reinforcing strips and pieces are glued in place. Note the wide leeboard backing plate in the center of the inside frame. Place one of these backing plates in the center of each inside frame.
The bow reinforcing strip is made from a 1” x 3” piece that is cut to fit along the front edge of the bow between the chine log and the gunwale support framing. We used PL Premium to fill any gaps we had between the pieces. The ¾” piece is cut flush with the bow.

4.    Reinforce the stern transom. Mark the outline of the side frame on the stern transom. Set the stern edge of the completed inside frame upright on the edge of the stern transom piece so that the bottom edge of the frame matches the bottom edge of the transom and the inside edge of the frame is flush with the side edge of the transom. (See the photos below.). Repeat for the other side of the transom. After completing this marking procedure, cut out the top and bottom cross pieces and upright support pieces for the stern transom. See Panel #6 for dimensions of these pieces and refer to the photos below to clarify their location. Both the bottoms of the upright supports and the bottom cross piece require angle cuts of approximately 17º. If you have access to a table saw, the long cut on the bottom cross piece is simple to make. It’s much more difficult with just a jig saw or circular saw, but a sharp block plane can usually correct variations. If you find that you have gaps between the lower cross piece and the transom itself, run a bead of PL Premium along the gap, then smooth out the fillet with a popsicle stick, tongue depressor, or small spoon. The PL Premium can fill gaps up to about ¼”, will dry hard, and can be sanded smooth.

The mentor evaluates the side frame construction and tests its strength.
Stand the inside frame on the rear transom to mark where the cross pieces goes. A helper might be needed to hold the frame upright. We follow a similar procedure with the bow framing process. The side frame should be flush with the edge of the stern transom at a width of 47 ½” leaving ¼” on each side of the transom for the sides to overlap. 
The bottom corners of the frame and transom as well as the sides are matched and then the outline of the side frame is marked directly on the transom. We had a slight offset because the pine gunwale support piece was about 1/8” wider than the chine log molding and the reinforcing piece between them.
Stern transom view showing reinforcing framework. Note how the pieces have been screwed to the plywood after glue was applied. See Panel #6 for the dimensions and angles.
Edge view of the stern transom reinforcing framework. Note the screw holes where the framing will be glued and screwed to the side frame.
Stern transom view after side frames are attached. Note how the upper transom corners have been rounded off using a plastic cup to mark the radius.

5.    Reinforce the bow transom. Unlike the stern transom which is cut off at 47 ½” so that it fits inside the aft edges of the two ¼”sides, the bow transom is cut at the full 48” in order to fit over the forward edges of the sides. So, in marking where the outside edges of the reinforcing framing fall for the bow framing, allow an extra ¼” on either side of the inside frames for the sides. See Panel 7 for framing dimensions then cut out the 2 cross pieces and three uprights and carefully clamp and glue all pieces into position.

The bow reinforcement structure consists of two angled cross pieces and three uprights. All have angles that must be cut. See the note on Panel 6 concerning cutting these angles.
The lower angle of 130º is achieved with a 40º cut along the forward facing edge of the lower cross piece. Note that the bow bottom has also been planed to an angle. The upper cross piece is cut at 27º. The uprights are cut at similar angles.
The bow is glued snugly between the inner frame pieces and is aligned along the bottom. The upper cross piece helps support the forward part of the bow deck.
  1. Add an additional cross piece to help support the bottom. Cut the 1” x 3” x 45 3/8” bottom cross piece shown in Panel #4 and attach it with glue and screws to the inside frames where indicated in the plans with the back of the cross piece at 3’ 9” from station 0 at the stern of the boat. Make certain that the bottom of the board is flush with the bottom of the ½” x ¾” moldings that were used as chine logs along the base of the inside frame.
  2. Add the mast partner support framing. Cut the 1” x 2” deck and mast support pieces shown in Panel #4 and screw and glue these pieces in place as shown in the plans. All deck support cross pieces are 45 3/8” in length and are installed on edge. Two small pieces of 1” x 2” x 2 ¼” are glued between the forward deck cross pieces to form the square mast partner structure. The square opening for the mast between these support pieces should measure 2 ¼” on each side when the two small pieces are glued in place. Next, two longer pieces of 1” x 2” are aligned with the shorter pieces and glued to the lower edges of the most forward cross piece and then to the bow transom to complete the mast partner support structure. These last two pieces measure approximately 9” on the upper long side and 8 ½” on the lower short side with an angle of 27º to match the bow. However, these two pieces might need to be cut to fit if you cut a piece to the given dimensions and find it does not fit snugly between the bow and cross piece.
  3. Round the transom corners. Using a plastic cup, coffee mug, compass, or other means for drawing circles with a diameter of 3”-3 ½”, draw round edges at the top corners only of the bow and stern transom, then use a jig saw to round off these four corners. Save the little pieces you cut off to insert at the front inside corners of the decks later.
  4. Clean up.

Notes and Tips Below Correspond to the Numbers Above.

  1. Often you will have to use screws instead of clamps to hold a piece in place while the glue sets. By placing a fender washer under the head of the screw, the head of the screw will not harm the face of the wood when it is screwed in tightly. After the glue dries, you have the option of removing the screw, slathering a 1/8” diameter bamboo skewer with glue and driving it into the screw hole, or removing the washers and using the screw itself to help hold the pieces in place. If you choose to leave the screws in the wood, I recommend using a countersink bit to widen out the top of the holes so that the screw heads will easily be set just below the surface of the wood.With respect to glues, neither Titebond nor PL Premium are recommended for use below the waterline. However, I haven’t had problems with either glue in these applications for previous PDRacers. I like PL Premium for applications such as filling gaps, holding the bottom on (along with a number of bronze nails/and or stainless screws). Above the potential waterline, I generally prefer Titebond for its quicker drying time.
  1. Spring clamps are often on sale at the big box stores for less than $2 each. Harbor Freight often offers the 1’ bar type clamps for about the same amount.
  1. We actually useda ¾” x ¾” piece of molding instead of a ½” x ¾” piece of molding for the chine logs along the bottom of the inside frames. However, the thicker piece was a problem to bend to the PDRacer bottom curve, and not all builders will have helpers with the strength to hold that piece in place along the boat’s rocker while the next clamp or screw is set in place. Eventually, we settled on the thinner of the two pieces for the chines. I believe I took that ¼” difference into account when determining the sizes of the reinforcing braces between the sheer and chine at the bow, center, and stern; however, it’s a good idea to check those measurements carefully against those provided in Panel 5. For that matter, it’s a good idea to check every measurement at least two times.
  1. Angles are tricky to discuss. Outside angles are given in Panel 5 where corners are not simply 90º. However, to achieve those outside angles, three boards have to be cut for the stern and bow transoms with certain angles all along the long edges of those boards. I give these angles in the degrees that would be found on a circular saw or table saw for making the correct cut. For example, to get an outside angle of 107º at the stern, the saw is set to cut along the edge of the stern transom cross brace at 17º which is the number of degrees more than a saw’s normal 90º cut that is required to cut the 107º corner. I show saw cut angles for the stern transom in Panel #6 and for the two cross braces for the bow transom in Panel #7.
  1. The middle cross brace might not be necessary for a lighter weight sailor. However, if the skipper and crew will weigh over 250 lb. combined, it’s an extra brace that might be needed. If the skipper alone weighs significantly over 220 lb., then adding (2) 1 ½” wide x ¾” thick skids to the bottom will help brace the bottom even more. I like the middle cross brace for its functionality as well. It keeps my $10 aluminum beach chair that I sometimes take along on longer cruises from sliding all around the boat.